The Vintage Low-Down.....
Some people say the vintage scene exploded into main stream as a result of Kate Moss arriving to the V&A's 2007 exhibition 'The Golden Age of Couture' in a 1930's Christian Dior gold silk gown. Courtney Love stood on the train and ripped it resulting in Kate tearing off the bottom section, then proceeding to wear it as a short skirt. She still looked fabulous! This 'wardrobe mishap' was splashed around the media for days, everyone wanted to wear vintage- or so the story goes. We went on to witness stars wearing vintage on the red carpet- Julia Roberts at the Oscars in vintage Valentio, Renee Zellwegger in a 1950's yellow gown by Jean Desses. All of this changed the perception of vintage, which used to be seen as something Bohemian and quirky, rather than the fashionable, sophisticated choice it is now. Vintage has always been a thing, but it's most definitely gained pace over the last 10 years.
In my previous post about ethical & eco friendly fashion I talked about why to buy vintage- find it here
This post shares my top tips for buying vintage.......
* Be prepared, Do your homework-
Plan your shopping trip giving you plenty of time as trying on will be essential. With this in mind make sure the clothing you wear is easy to get on and off. Keep your shoes neutral as often vintage fabrics are busy and colourful. Wear minimal make up as most garments have side or no zip meaning it will need to be pulled on over your head- make up is easily transferred!
Do your homework- do some research as to which styles/eras you like and will suit your body shape. If you're curvy go for the fitted silhouettes of the 40's/50's and avoid the boxy styles of the 20's/60's. If you like the 30's bear in mind the figure skimming, bias cuts are unforgiving on a round tummy or large bust. The 80's 'power shoulder pads' will be great for balancing out a pear shaped figure and wide leg 40's palazzo style trousers will be great for balancing an inverted triangle.
* Where to find vintage-
Charity shops these days have 'cottoned on' and tend to research the value of items (often by asking me to price them!) as well as curating a section of the shop as 'vintage & retro'. This means it's harder to find a bargain, but if you search, often in the 'gen pop' area of the shop not the 'vintage' section, you will come across less obvious items- maybe a dress from the 90's or a bag from the 70's. These are usually reasonably priced. Beware of incorrect labeling in charity shops- this has become a big issue lately. I've seen many modern, vintage inspired items labelled as vintage! A good way to check is to look at the care label- tumble drier symbols are a give away!
Vintage fairs, markets and festivals are a great place to buy from reputable dealers who know their stuff and will be able to offer you advice as well as the provenance of the item you're buying. Here's some great events worth checking out-
Live auctions and EBay are also a great place to but vintage items. Personally, I find them best for vintage jewellery and accessories. Just be sure to stick to your budget, don't get carried away #auctionfever
Vintage shops are popping up on the High St more and more, especially in places with a university. Remember shops have high over head costs meaning their prices will be higher than the other places I've mentioned. That said, the shop owner, as with all vintage dealers, will be a wealth of knowledge and extremely passionate about their trade. Take time to pick their brains- they won't bite, I promise! Shops worth visiting-
Foxtrot, Marlborough (my fave vintage shop front!)
Custard Factory, Birmingham (a whole district of vintage shops)
*Check, Look and Inspect-
Once in the shop, skimming the rails there are some things I'd advise you to do- hold the garment up to the light- this helps to identify any stains or flaws. In all honesty most vintage fashionistas feel a tiny stain or mark is a small price to pay for owning something original, maybe even iconic!
- Always check the armpits- back in the day before deodorant was as good as it is now, and fabric was less breathable, sweat, due to it's acidic content, damaged and stained garments. Some stains are not good! - Check the fastenings- small fabric covered buttons are not going to be easy to replace. It's worth checking collars and cuffs for any missing buttons. Also worth checking the zip, although this can be replaced.
* Sizing-
Vintage clothes tend to run small. Waists were fashionably tiny from the forties to the sixties. Dresses and jackets were very fitted and women wore corsets and girdles to be able to squeeze into them. Wartime rationing meant women were smaller. Women today are bigger and corsets far less popular. Sizing of vintage clothing should be used purely as a guide, and sometimes even ignored. Whilst i'm not saying if you wear a modern day 14 try on a vintage size 8 but the best way to gauge sizing is to try garments on.
* Caring for your vintage garment-
Always check the items care label, if it is still visible, follow it! Hand wash knit wear in baby shampoo and don't soak it as that could stretch the fibres. Dry it inside out and flat,
For any smelly items mist sparingly with vodka, yes vodka. It has no odour and the alcohol kills bacteria. Don't use this on silk or crepe as the alcohol could damage the fabric.
With silk store on padded hangers to keep the shape and ensure it's not hung in direct sunlight- it fades easily. With satin keep away from water, it will wrinkle. Never buy satin that is brittle or frayed as it won't wear well or last long.
Bear in mind that items with embellishments could be tricky to clean as Gelatine sequins will melt and Bakelite or glass beads could crack.
Remember the item you are purchasing could be 60 plus years old, Treat it well and it will last longer.
As I've said before I could write a book about how, where, what vintage to buy, but in fact it's already been done by a lovely friend of mine- Naomi Thompson. Details of her book 'Style Me Vintage' here.
I'll leave you with my final tip, always check the pockets, who knows what treasure you will find.......
If you'd like a 'Vintage' focused style session or personal shopping session do get in touch!
Be you, always
Victoria xx